Bull kelp forests thrive in Oregon’s cold, nutrient-rich waters near shore. But rising ocean temperatures, along with overgrazing by purple sea urchins, threaten kelp’s survival and ability to provide essential habitat for fish, marine mammals and birds.

Protecting Oregon’s Enchanting Kelp Forests

written by Kerry Newberry Emerging from the tiny coastal town of Port Orford, a dedicated crew of marine scientists, commercial urchin divers, conservationists, tribal members, tour guides, drone pilots, SCUBA and free divers, and chefs have rallied together from various perspectives, but with a shared goal: to protect and restore kelp forests along the Oregon Coast. The Oregon Kelp Alliance (ORKA) formed in 2017, when divers and scientists first noticed a decline in bull kelp forests near Orford Reef and Nellies Cove on Oregon’s south coast. “Kelp forests provide critical habitat for a diversity of marine life and absorb large amounts of carbon,” said Tom Calvanese, the station manager for the Port Orford Field Station and director of ORKA. “And in many places, we are losing them.” The rapid decline of kelp forests is a global phenomenon—a result of rising ocean temperatures, along with overgrazing by species like spiny purple…

The remote Minam River Lodge is accessible only on foot, on horseback or by small chartered airplane.

Oregon Destinations for Every Type of Traveler

written by Jean Chen Smith With limited time between work, family and other commitments, a vacation is something I look forward to from the moment I decide where I’m going. As we welcome 2024 and begin to plan for the year ahead, we look to new destinations, and new experiences. Why not try something new this year based on the type of traveler you already are? Choose your own journey—here are nine of our favorite spots. THE ROMANTIC PICK: PACIFIC CITY As you arrive at the entrance of Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa, you will be struck by the spectacular views of this oceanfront property. Located alongside the Cape Kiwanda State Natural Area, this elegant hotel features thirty-three upscale guest rooms, along with spacious cottages. Both offer sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and Haystack Rock. Watch the sunset from your private balcony with your sweetheart, or cuddle by the…

Southeastern Oregon’s Alvord Desert is one of the state’s darkest places to ogle stars and the Milky Way.

Oregon’s Top 8 Places to Stargaze

Going beyond light pollution for celestial arrays written by Jen Sotolongo Outside of Oregon’s metropolitan areas lies a celestial sanctuary, where expansive landscapes, high desert elevation and commitment to preserving natural darkness create ideal astro-tourism opportunities for stargazers. With two designated International Dark Sky Places in Central Oregon and remote destinations hundreds of miles away from light pollution, Oregon offers cosmo lovers an abundance of stargazing options throughout the state. CENTRAL OREGON Central Oregon is a haven for stargazing enthusiasts thanks to its high desert location and frequent clear skies. Dedicated to preserving night skies, the region is home to two designated International Dark Sky Places offering ample opportunities to stare into night skies. From the Prineville Reservoir to dedicated observatories, Central Oregon offers a celestial symphony for all to enjoy. Prineville Reservoir: Oregon’s First Dark Sky Park In May 2021, Prineville Reservoir became Oregon’s first state park to earn…

The new Ritz gleams in the Portland skyline.

The Ritz-Carlton, Portland

written by Kerry Newberryphotography by The Ritz-Carlton, Portland Since first breaking ground in 2020, there’s been a buzz of anticipation surrounding the Pacific Northwest’s first Ritz-Carlton hotel. In October, the five-star hotel opened in the heart of downtown Portland. Befitting a city where reclaimed wood prevails over white table cloths, the overall design balances earthy with refined details throughout the space. In the rooms and suites, the interiors celebrate the lush and wild landscape of the region. The immersive grand lobby, aptly deemed Forest Hall, evokes the evergreen landscape of the Pacific Northwest with sensational biophilic design. Nature as art also stars in the lobby bar where a luminous installation of leafy plants and twinkling lights unfurls from the ceiling. ROOMS In the 207 guest rooms and 44 suites, you’ll find signature amenities from luxurious Frette linens and plush slippers to soft waffle weave cotton robes. The interiors evoke misty…

Come for the cerulean blue at the new Bar Rio.

Dining Hot Spots in Bend

written by Kerry Newberry After schussing down the nearby ski slopes, it’s time for a soul-stirring dinner. For this wintry scenario, Bend can’t be beat. Here’s the town’s latest hot spots for the ultimate après-ski feast. For a luxe night out, head to Dear Irene (926 NW Brooks St.; www.dearirenebend.com), beautifully bedecked in gold and jewel tones with a row of luminous chandeliers. Opened by chef Jonny Becklund and his wife, Irene, you’ll find sublime starters like arancini stuffed with Oregon Dungeness crab, an umami-packed grilled cheese with black truffle honey and prawn saganaki. At Bar Rio (915 NW Wall St.; www.barriobend.com), there’s a new concept from longtime restaurateurs Steven and Amy Draheim. In the redesigned bar space, you’ll find interiors in cerulean blue, contemporary pendants and Alhambra-inspired tiles. On the menu, there’s no shortage of festive tapas and cocktails from a zingy shrimp and mango ceviche to spicy chicken…

Of Portuguese heritage, St. Peter’s Church in Echo is slowly being restored.

Preserving Heritage

The rally to restore a historic church written by Joni Kabana If you find yourself traveling along Oregon’s Interstate 84, consider taking a short side trip to the small historical town of Echo, 8 miles south of Hermiston and 20 miles east of Pendleton. Set amid gorgeous rolling hills on the banks of the Umatilla River, Echo takes you way back in time. You can sip wine at either Echo Ridge Cellars or the Sno Road Winery, take a jitter juice or lunch break in the family operated H&P Cafe or peruse any of the small yet highly fascinating museums. There are seven buildings that are registered with the National Register of Historic Places, so simply strolling the town’s streets is a history lesson in and of itself. The real treasure of this town is tucked away on a lot that, despite facing three major floods in the last century,…

The fine craftsmanship of Perpetually Devastated played out in a 1968 Overlander.

Art and Craft in an Airstream

A couple creates one-of-a-kind Airstream interiors in Southern Oregon written by Melissa Dalton photography by Bethany Williams With a business name like Perpetually Devastated, Parker Bolden and Bethany Williams are used to explaining the meaning. “We are sensitive people and find the state of our world depressing sometimes,” said Williams. “People hate others just for being different. There’s environmental degradation, extractive capitalism, the list could go on and on. You could just be really sad. It’s all perpetually devastating. And yet, you have to find a way to make yourself happy, to make things just a little bit better if you can.” One of the ways that the two have done that is by renovating Airstream trailers alongside a talented crew at their shop in Southern Oregon. Each project starts with a trailer that has solid bones, which they use as a base to rebuild the interior from scratch, from…

Spirit of Halloweentown festivities transform the town of St. Helens in the fall.

Autumn in St. Helens, Vernonia and Sauvie Island

The path less trodden to adventures in fall written by James Sinks Fittingly, for a movie about off-duty Halloween monsters, Disney producers scouted for a ghost town. They found a perfect backdrop in northwest Oregon’s St. Helens. The mills were long gone, but the once-busy downtown boasted a picturesque public square, a classic courthouse and a stunning view of its namesake, Mount St. Helens, 39 miles away across the Columbia. Filmed a quarter century ago, Halloweentown became a cult classic and even spawned several sequels. Soon after, cameras returned for the vampire-teen romance mashup Twilight, in which St. Helens stood in for another timber town, Forks, Washington. Now, each autumn when Mother Nature readies her technicolor picture show, St. Helens unpacks the nostalgia, costumes and cash registers. For six weeks, downtown and the central plaza—where usually you can trace Lewis and Clark’s voyage on stepping stones—are transformed into the “Spirit…

Sosta House’s Great Room is open to guests for dining, reading, working or visiting by the fireplace.

Sosta House

written by Kerry Newberryphotography by Kenna Beban For brother-sister duo Nico and Mia Ponzi Hamacher, Sosta House means much more than an idyllic wine country retreat. “We are sharing the way we grew up,” said Nico. “With beautiful moments in the garden and around the table.” Their three-room bed and breakfast that opened mid-July is in the original home of their grandparents—wine legends Dick and Nancy Ponzi. Over the course of a year, the siblings, along with extended family and friends, brought their vision to life, turning the home that housed multiple generations of the Ponzi family into a thoughtful wine country getaway. In fact, their 90-year-old grandfather helped build the back deck. One of Mia’s friends stitched all the curtains on her grandmother’s sewing machine. And their father, winemaker Eric Hamacher, spearheaded the organic kitchen garden that supplies ingredients for guest breakfasts and wine-paired dinners. Most of the artwork…