Northwest Destination

Park City and the surrounding Wasatch Range boast some of the best and most consistent snow for skiing and riding.

Park City: Ski, Dine & Explore in Utah’s Alps

Park City shines with the nation’s largest alpine resort and a hopping after-slopes scene written by James Sinks When life sends clouds—as Pacific Northwest winters are known to do—seek silver linings. Try looking eastward. An abundance of escapist luster awaits in the craggy, silver-laden Wasatch Back Range in Utah, and in its centerpiece nineteenth century mine town of Park City. Navigate silver (and gold) Olympic medalists’ terrain. Celebrate the silver screen. Admire local-fashioned sterling jewelry. Lunch at the Silver Star Café. And happily embrace the truism that not all that glitters need be gold. Long a hunting territory of Indigenous Ute tribes, the Wasatch region of the Rocky Mountains wasn’t initially enticing to westward-bound settlers in the 1860s, especially when compared to the fast-growing religious enclave founded by Brigham Young at nearby Great Salt Lake. But then prospectors struck silver. For the following century, mines churned out precious ore and…

Vancouver Island’s Malahat SkyWalk soars above the forest, giving visitors who make the climb unparalleled views.

Malahat SkyWalk and Victoria’s Indigenous Ties

The soaring Malahat SkyWalk helps connect the present to Vancouver’s Indigenous past written by James Sinks Unfolding below, a lush blanket of Vancouver Island rainforest disappears at a rugged shoreline, and then rises again through mist-shrouded hillsides across a narrow bay. Eagles tack in the wind. There is no bustle, except maybe the happy screams of children descending a slide nearby. The bird’s-eye vantage comes courtesy of one of the more ambitious and architecturally stunning ecotourism projects in North America, the circular Malahat SkyWalk, just northwest of Victoria, B.C. Opened in 2021, the centerpiece of the $17 million SkyWalk project is a towering wood-and-steel scaffold that invites you to corkscrew from a Douglas fir-and-cedar forest upward some ten floors—roughly 800 feet from the ground below—to a 360-degree viewing platform where on clear days you can see as far away as Washington’s Mount Baker. It’s a place that can make you…

Craters of the Moon National Monument and Preserve offers a beautiful and austere experience without the summer crowds of national parks.

Explore Idaho’s Craters of the Moon: 100 Years of Lava Landscapes and Adventure

Celebrate the centennial of Idaho’s dusty lava wonderland at Craters of the Moon—and then clean up your act afterward written by James Sinks As he zigzagged an otherworldly expanse of lava flows, blackened buttes and craggy caves in central Idaho—and on rocks so jagged underfoot it left his Airedale terrier’s paws bloodied—Boise explorer Robert Limbert remarked that the more than 600 volcanic square miles looked like a desolate moonscape. And yet at the same time, also strikingly beautiful, he wrote in National Geographic in 1924, as part of a bid to secure federal protection. “It is a place of color and silence,” he wrote in dispatches from the Craters of the Moon. “It is the play of light at sunset across this lava that charms the spectator.” The name stuck. The same year, President Calvin Coolidge formally designated the Craters of the Moon National Monument, he said, to conserve its…

A late Geminid meteor and fireworks illuminate dense fog right before the clock struck midnight on New Year’s Eve at Goldendale Observatory.

Goldendale Observatory

From cuisine to art to the starlit sky, things are looking up in Goldendale written by James Sinks Above the Columbia River in Central Washington—past a patchwork of vineyards, sentries of spinning windmills and the weathered farming community of Goldendale—the universe is waiting. In a cavernous dome and with a whir, a refrigerator-sized telescope with a 24.5-inch-diameter lens pivots and focuses, bringing into view distant celestial celebrities like star clusters, planets, galaxies and nebulae. The reflector-style scope is the star attraction—well, along with the stars—at Goldendale Observatory State Park, which invites visitors to climb a ladder for a peek during two free shows, several days a week, on a hilltop overlooking the city. Afternoon sessions are all about the sun, and offer views of the fiery surface that you’re not able to see anyplace else. “No one else does it like we do,” said Troy Carpenter, the observatory director and…

Cruising along Riverside Park in downtown Whitefish.

Spring in Whitefish

Find a world-class experience in a small mountain town written by Kevin Maxphotography by Whitney Whitehouse Whitefish, Montana, may be known as the host for skiers at Whitefish Resort in the winter or as the gateway to Glacier National Park in the summer, but it’s the Whitefish culture of creativity itself that pervades all seasons. No more than 10,000 people live in this small town surrounded by the Salish Mountains to the west and Flathead National Forest to the east, but it nonetheless ticks many boxes for world-class cuisine, hospitality and recreation. In its earliest civilizations, Salish, Kootenai and Pend d’Oreilles tribes inhabited the area, fishing the banks of the Whitefish Lake and Whitefish River as it winds through what is now downtown Whitefish. The outdoors and recreation are still the draw for many Whitefish residents and visitors. For hikers and runners, there are scores of trails in the surrounding…

Sol Duc Falls is one of the most photographed spots in the Olympic Peninsula.

Olympic Peninsula + Forks

In the Olympic National Forest, enjoy the silence (among other things) written by James Sinks HOLD COMPLETELY STILL. Listen. And you will hear absolutely nothing. And that is precisely the point. Like following a map to hidden treasure, we’d ventured 3 miles on the Hoh River Trail into the fern-filled temperate rainforest in Washington’s Olympic National Park. In the shade of towering giants, we crawled under fallen trees, sidestepped through an arch formed by a Sitka Spruce, balanced on makeshift bridges over bogs, and waved hello to a family of pheasant, not knowing who was more surprised. And then, on an overgrown carpet of moss on a massive log, there was the place. The One Square Inch of Silence. The spot—marked by a red-painted stone, about one inch across—helps to draw a remarkable contrast to the world elsewhere, and how relentlessly noisy it can be. Here, in this place, the…

The trail networks around Boise make it a mecca for runners and their dogs.

Boise

Big outdoors and a small Basque community make this Idaho locale worth a springtime getaway written by James Sinksphotography by Visit Idaho Wednesdays and Fridays on Grove Street in downtown Boise, a line of hungry noontime patrons forms outside the Basque Market, as a giant pan of steaming saffron-seasoned paella simmers on an outdoor stove. The biweekly culinary pilgrimage celebrates the city’s Basque heritage, which traces to the influx of immigrants that began arriving in the 1800s from near the France-Spain border. Initially searching for gold in the West, Basques were sought to tend the huge flocks of hungry sheep that once chomped their way through the surrounding high country and range. Today, the Idaho state capital is home to the continent’s biggest Basque community and, while many cities have Chinatowns, Boise boasts the Basque Block. Roam between former boarding houses and shops, experience authentic Iberian fare like pintxos (think…

Phoenix offers desert air with a dash of sprawl. February and March see the flocks of snowbirds descend on the city.

Phoenix

A high desert retreat from the doldrums of winter written by James Sinks No one would blame you for glancing around the room for a Cheshire Cat. It’s a magical world in this dimly lit subterranean speakeasy, where birds are chirping on the speakers, the barkeep is concocting craft cocktails amid greenery, and wall-to-wall video screens offer virtual panoramas of moonlit landscapes. And it’s happening in the most unlikely of places: Down an astroturf stairway in what was once the pit for an oil change shop, northeast of downtown Phoenix, Ariz. On a recent afternoon, we made a reservation at 36 Below—a good idea because the place is tiny, at just 600 square feet—to see if the libations and decor lived up to the hype. We weren’t disappointed in either, especially the smokey whiskey one that arrived in a mock Faberge Egg. The basement bar, hidden beneath what is now…

The holidays in Bovarian-themed Leavenworth are like walking into a snowglobe with good beer.

Leavenworth

Compete your holiday shopping—and find beer and deer—in the PNW’s premier Christmastown written by James Sinks Pretty much anywhere, you can open your wallet and browse for holiday gifts. Yet few places—at least, on this continent—can approach the kitschy yuletide charm of Leavenworth, the Pacific Northwest Christmastown filled with Bavarian-styled buildings, beers, bratwurst, and boutiques in Washington’s north Cascades. Festive holiday shopping is only the beginning. Surrounded by snowy and showy 8,000-foot peaks, Leavenworth offers a wonderland of winter outdoor pursuits you won’t find at any strip malls or retail websites. Fly down powdery slopes at Mission Ridge Ski Area; try nordic trails, tubing runs and ski jumping at Leavenworth Winter Sports Club; navigate sledding hills pretty much everywhere; and—once things really cool down—strap on crampons for ice climbing. If that’s not enough to convince you to start making travel plans, there also are horse-drawn sleigh rides with cocoa and…