Biking through the lower reaches of the stunning Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier National Park.

The Country’s Greatest Ride

By road bike or e-bike, Glacier’s Going-to-the-Sun is a top American journey through time + elevation written by Kevin Maxphotography by Whitney Whitehouse Some people have heard about the Going-to-the-Sun Road and make plans to cycle it and train for months to be fit enough to gain the sustained vertical feetto the top. Others have listened to their most athletic (and somewhat nauseating) friends recall with laughter the 3,200-foot climb to the top of Logan Pass. “I was pushing 275 watts at the summit, man!” Still others may completely tune out one of Glacier National Park’s most spectacular experiences because it’s simply beyond their physical limit. On a spring morning last year, I joined a group of riders who fit into each one of these profiles on a push for this Glacier experience. Half of us were on bicycles—road bikes—the other half were on e-bikes. Our hybrid crew could not…

Cruising along Riverside Park in downtown Whitefish.

Spring in Whitefish

Find a world-class experience in a small mountain town written by Kevin Maxphotography by Whitney Whitehouse Whitefish, Montana, may be known as the host for skiers at Whitefish Resort in the winter or as the gateway to Glacier National Park in the summer, but it’s the Whitefish culture of creativity itself that pervades all seasons. No more than 10,000 people live in this small town surrounded by the Salish Mountains to the west and Flathead National Forest to the east, but it nonetheless ticks many boxes for world-class cuisine, hospitality and recreation. In its earliest civilizations, Salish, Kootenai and Pend d’Oreilles tribes inhabited the area, fishing the banks of the Whitefish Lake and Whitefish River as it winds through what is now downtown Whitefish. The outdoors and recreation are still the draw for many Whitefish residents and visitors. For hikers and runners, there are scores of trails in the surrounding…

The majority of Inn the Ground is set in the earth in wine country.

Inn the Ground

written by Kerry Newberryphotography by Inn the Ground When the setting sun hits Inn the Ground, wine country’s newest retreat, you’ll often see a family of deer frolic through the surrounding native grasses and wildflowers. It’s one of many serene scenes that unfold at this nine-room oasis located just outside of Carlton. Set in the hillside above a working regenerative farm, nature permeates all the spaces here. In the upper-level community rooms, you’ll find floor-to-ceiling windows that bring brightness even on rainy days. Walls are hung with contemporary artwork, often evoking the natural world, along with bookcases stocked with titles that focus on regenerative agriculture and social transformation (think Masanobu Fukuoka, Rebecca Solnit and Masaru Emoto). Designed to foster a deep connection to nature, two-thirds of the building is recessed into the land. As you walk downstairs to the rooms, you’ll gaze across the living roof, lush with seasonal grasses…

Dubbed the Covered Bridge Capital of the West, Cottage Grove is the place for romance and nostalgia.

Cottage Grove

When it’s time for romance, plant a kiss in Cottage Grove written by James Sinks In yesteryear, covered bridges also were known as kissing bridges. Some say it’s because the seclusion offered a seductive smooching opportunity. Or, because horses slowed to a walking gait to pass through, it became much easier to wink and lean into a lip-lock. And for the superstitious, a kiss represented a wish for luck, as covered bridges were known to sometimes house bats and other scary critters. Whatever the reason, or the season, the spans remain a perfect place to practice your pucker. And in Oregon, you’ll find opportunities aplenty surrounding the hamlet of Cottage Grove, dubbed the Covered Bridge Capital of the West. So if you’re hoping for some kissing on Valentine’s Day—or any day, really—the town just might be the mood enhancer you’re looking for. “If you are a city nightlife person, then…

Bull kelp forests thrive in Oregon’s cold, nutrient-rich waters near shore. But rising ocean temperatures, along with overgrazing by purple sea urchins, threaten kelp’s survival and ability to provide essential habitat for fish, marine mammals and birds.

Protecting Oregon’s Enchanting Kelp Forests

written by Kerry Newberry Emerging from the tiny coastal town of Port Orford, a dedicated crew of marine scientists, commercial urchin divers, conservationists, tribal members, tour guides, drone pilots, SCUBA and free divers, and chefs have rallied together from various perspectives, but with a shared goal: to protect and restore kelp forests along the Oregon Coast. The Oregon Kelp Alliance (ORKA) formed in 2017, when divers and scientists first noticed a decline in bull kelp forests near Orford Reef and Nellies Cove on Oregon’s south coast. “Kelp forests provide critical habitat for a diversity of marine life and absorb large amounts of carbon,” said Tom Calvanese, the station manager for the Port Orford Field Station and director of ORKA. “And in many places, we are losing them.” The rapid decline of kelp forests is a global phenomenon—a result of rising ocean temperatures, along with overgrazing by species like spiny purple…

The remote Minam River Lodge is accessible only on foot, on horseback or by small chartered airplane.

Oregon Destinations for Every Type of Traveler

written by Jean Chen Smith With limited time between work, family and other commitments, a vacation is something I look forward to from the moment I decide where I’m going. As we welcome 2024 and begin to plan for the year ahead, we look to new destinations, and new experiences. Why not try something new this year based on the type of traveler you already are? Choose your own journey—here are nine of our favorite spots. THE ROMANTIC PICK: PACIFIC CITY As you arrive at the entrance of Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa, you will be struck by the spectacular views of this oceanfront property. Located alongside the Cape Kiwanda State Natural Area, this elegant hotel features thirty-three upscale guest rooms, along with spacious cottages. Both offer sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and Haystack Rock. Watch the sunset from your private balcony with your sweetheart, or cuddle by the…

Southeastern Oregon’s Alvord Desert is one of the state’s darkest places to ogle stars and the Milky Way.

Oregon’s Top 8 Places to Stargaze

Going beyond light pollution for celestial arrays written by Jen Sotolongo Outside of Oregon’s metropolitan areas lies a celestial sanctuary, where expansive landscapes, high desert elevation and commitment to preserving natural darkness create ideal astro-tourism opportunities for stargazers. With two designated International Dark Sky Places in Central Oregon and remote destinations hundreds of miles away from light pollution, Oregon offers cosmo lovers an abundance of stargazing options throughout the state. CENTRAL OREGON Central Oregon is a haven for stargazing enthusiasts thanks to its high desert location and frequent clear skies. Dedicated to preserving night skies, the region is home to two designated International Dark Sky Places offering ample opportunities to stare into night skies. From the Prineville Reservoir to dedicated observatories, Central Oregon offers a celestial symphony for all to enjoy. Prineville Reservoir: Oregon’s First Dark Sky Park In May 2021, Prineville Reservoir became Oregon’s first state park to earn…

The new Ritz gleams in the Portland skyline.

The Ritz-Carlton, Portland

written by Kerry Newberryphotography by The Ritz-Carlton, Portland Since first breaking ground in 2020, there’s been a buzz of anticipation surrounding the Pacific Northwest’s first Ritz-Carlton hotel. In October, the five-star hotel opened in the heart of downtown Portland. Befitting a city where reclaimed wood prevails over white table cloths, the overall design balances earthy with refined details throughout the space. In the rooms and suites, the interiors celebrate the lush and wild landscape of the region. The immersive grand lobby, aptly deemed Forest Hall, evokes the evergreen landscape of the Pacific Northwest with sensational biophilic design. Nature as art also stars in the lobby bar where a luminous installation of leafy plants and twinkling lights unfurls from the ceiling. ROOMS In the 207 guest rooms and 44 suites, you’ll find signature amenities from luxurious Frette linens and plush slippers to soft waffle weave cotton robes. The interiors evoke misty…

Come for the cerulean blue at the new Bar Rio.

Dining Hot Spots in Bend

written by Kerry Newberry After schussing down the nearby ski slopes, it’s time for a soul-stirring dinner. For this wintry scenario, Bend can’t be beat. Here’s the town’s latest hot spots for the ultimate après-ski feast. For a luxe night out, head to Dear Irene (926 NW Brooks St.; www.dearirenebend.com), beautifully bedecked in gold and jewel tones with a row of luminous chandeliers. Opened by chef Jonny Becklund and his wife, Irene, you’ll find sublime starters like arancini stuffed with Oregon Dungeness crab, an umami-packed grilled cheese with black truffle honey and prawn saganaki. At Bar Rio (915 NW Wall St.; www.barriobend.com), there’s a new concept from longtime restaurateurs Steven and Amy Draheim. In the redesigned bar space, you’ll find interiors in cerulean blue, contemporary pendants and Alhambra-inspired tiles. On the menu, there’s no shortage of festive tapas and cocktails from a zingy shrimp and mango ceviche to spicy chicken…