written by Thor Erickson | photography by Tambi Lane
Years ago, while standing around a smoky fire pit in the Willamette Valley with a couple of chef and butcher friends, we got into it—a heated debate over the perfect holiday ham. One argued for the rustic charm of country ham, aged and cured like an Appalachian heirloom. The other, a devotee of European traditions, sang the praises of jamón ibérico, that nutty, air-dried marvel from Spain. I kept my poker face—then calmly played the city ham card.
You see, while country ham and dry-cured European hams get all the gourmet glory, there’s something time-less and deeply comforting about a city ham—especially during the holidays.
What’s the difference?
A city ham is wet-cured, often brined or injected with a seasoned solution of water, salt, sugar and sodium nitrite. It’s typically sold fully cooked or smoked, and sometimes spiral-sliced for easy serving. It’s the ham most of us grew up with—the one carved on my auntie’s table with sweet potatoes on one side and a green bean casserole on the other.
Country ham, by contrast, is drycured with salt and aged for months, sometimes over a year. It’s intensely salty, requires soaking before cooking and has a dense, chewy texture—more akin to prosciutto than the plump, juicy ham you find at a holiday buffet.
Then there’s European-style hams, like Italy’s prosciutto or Spain’s jamón serrano. These are uncooked, air-dried and served in thin, melt-in-your-mouth slices. Delicious, yes, but not exactly what you picture carving at the end of the table.
That’s where city ham shines.
When it comes to the holidays, when cooks have their hands full preparing many dishes to be ready at the same time, city ham is your best friend. Why? It’s fully cooked. It’s forgiving. And with a good glaze (think mustard, brown sugar and a splash of Oregon pinot noir), it transforms into something both nostalgic and spectacular.
Last year, I served a city ham at a company holiday potluck. I rubbed it with ground fennel seed, dry mustard and ginger; slathered it with a glaze made from Oregon honey, brown sugar and pinot noir; and slow-roasted it until the edges caramelized just enough to bring everyone to the kitchen asking what smelled so delicious. Folks who claimed to hate ham came back for seconds. Someone even asked if it was “artisanal.” I just laughed and said, “Nope.” And started singing “Fool for the City” by Foghat.
Don’t forget the leftovers. City ham slices easily and fits perfectly into sandwiches, omelets or—my favorite—a post-holiday mac and cheese that’ll knock your wool socks off.
So, while I love a paper-thin slice of prosciutto or a sliver of country ham with a biscuit, when it’s time to feed a crowd, fill bellies and warm hearts, nothing beats a well-cooked city ham. It’s honest, hearty and ready for whatever your holiday throws its way.
Thor’s Holiday City Ham with Fennel-Ginger Rub and Pinot Noir Glaze
Ingredients:
FOR THE HAM
- 1 fully cooked bone-in city ham (8-10 lbs) (If you want to buy a smaller ham, get the “shank end”)
- 1 tablespoon fennel seeds
- 2 teaspoons dry powdered ginger
- 1 teaspoon dry mustard powder
- 1 teaspoon paprika
- 1 tablespoon kosher salt
- 1 teaspoon cracked black pepper
FOR THE GLAZE
- 1 cup Oregon pinot noir
- ½ cup honey
- ½ cup light brown sugar
- 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
- 1 pinch ground cloves
Instructions:
- Preheat your oven to 325 degrees. Remove ham from packaging, and pat it dry with paper towels. If it’s got a rind or thick fat cap, score it in a diamond pattern—not too deep, just enough to let the flavor in.
- Toast the fennel seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant (about 1-2 minutes). Let them cool slightly, and then crush them using a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder. Mix with ginger, mustard powder, paprika, salt and pepper to form a rub.
- Massage the spice rub mixture all over the ham—get into those score marks. Place the ham on a rack in a roasting pan, cut side down, and tent loosely with foil.
- Roast for about 1½ to 2 hours, or until the internal temperature reaches around 120 degrees. (Remember, it’s already cooked—we’re just heating it up.)
- While the ham roasts, combine the pinot noir, honey, brown sugar, Dijon and cloves in a saucepan. Simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until thickened and syrupy—about 10-15 minutes.
- Remove the foil, and brush the ham generously with glaze. Return to the oven, uncovered, and baste every 10-15 minutes for the next 30-40 minutes, or until the ham is glossy and caramelized.
- Let the ham rest for at least 15 minutes before carving. Serve warm with extra glaze drizzled over the top.
