written by Thor Erickson | photography by Tambi Lane
As I maneuvered my boat to the downstream ferry through Boxcar Rapid, my walkie-talkie started making noise.
“Thor! Are you there? Give me your location!” the voice echoed off the sheer canyon walls on the side of the Deschutes River.
I couldn’t reach my two-way radio as it was strapped to my pack on the floor of the boat, and I was a bit busy. Going stern first down the rapids wasn’t my first choice. But there I was with a boat full of coolers and cooking gear. I had no choice.
As the boat slammed over the rapids, going backward over the whitewater, I looked from side to side to make sure that all was clear, and none of the gear broke loose.
As the river calmed, my radio went on again. “Thor, please respond!” exclaimed the voice of Patty. “Where the hell are you?”
“I’m right here,” I responded. “I’ll be at Sandy Beach in a few minutes.”
Patty and her husband, John, owned the whitewater guide company I was working for. She was waiting to pick up me and my boat to portage around Sherars Falls and get me back on the river so I could set up and prepare dinner for twelve rafters at Buck Hollow.
“Well, you are early as always,” Patty said. “How about some lunch?”
Patty’s family was celebrating the bounty of the river and had prepared a traditional salmon bake. Woodsmoke along with the sweet smell of slow-cooking salmon rubbed with salt and brown sugar wafted through the air. The fish were fileted and propped on wooden frames like an opened book in front of a smoldering fire. Vegetables, rice and frybread were being cooked to go with the salmon. I was honored to join them.
An hour and a half later, Patty, John and I were on our way to get my boat back on the river.
As I floated along, heading toward the Columbia River, I felt a renewed sense of wonder, awareness and respect of the life-giving power of the water.
Spring king (Chinook) salmon is sought for the flavor it contains due to the fat that these fish store before they migrate from the Pacific to the Columbia River.
When cooked properly, this fat creates a rich texture and delicate flavor.
Here’s my favorite way to prepare spring Chinook salmon.
Woodsmoke along with the sweet smell of slow-cooking salmon rubbed with salt and brown sugar wafted through the air. The fish were fileted and propped on wooden frames like an opened book in front of a smoldering fire.
King Salmon
Ingredients:
- 1 filet (side) of king salmon, skin on, pin bones removed
- ⅓ cup kosher salt
- ¼ cup brown sugar
- ½ teaspoon ground coriander seed
- ½ teaspoon paprika
- ¼ teaspoon ground fennel seed
- ¼ teaspoon chili flakes (could be more if desired)
- ¼ teaspoon ground cumin
- ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
Note: This recipe uses your gas or charcoal grill to cook the salmon. This can be done in a 400-degree oven with similar results. If using charcoal, start the coals before step 1.
Instructions:
- Tear off enough aluminum foil to measure approximately 4 inches longer than the salmon filet. Create a tray by folding up 1 inch on each side of the foil to create four walls.
- Rub the foil tray with oil. Place the foil tray on a half sheet pan or cookie sheet. Place the salmon on the foil tray, flesh side up.
- Mix the salt, brown sugar and all the spices.
- Rub the spice mixture on the salmon, and let sit at room temp for 10 to 15 minutes.
- Preheat your gas grill. After your grill reaches 400 to 500 degrees, slide the foil tray (with the salmon on it) onto the hot grill, and close the lid.
- After 4 minutes, check the salmon. When the salmon reaches an internal temp of 130 degrees, carefully remove it, sliding it back onto the sheet pan. (I use a couple metal spatulas for this maneuver.) Let it rest away from heat for about 5 minutes.
- Serve it whole family style on a platter, or cut it into individual portions. The skin is delicious whether it comes off the filet or is served separately.
