written by Thor Erickson | photography by Tambi Lane

“RUN FASTER!” our 8-year-old son, Jahn, yelled. “It’s not working!”

“You can do it!” my wife, Cathy, cheered as the waves crashed behind us.

I ran down the beach as fast as I could. Rain was coming in sideways. The wind gusted so hard it lifted sand into the air, stinging my face and filling my mouth with salt. It was spring break on the Oregon Coast, and we were trying—against all better judg-ment—to fly a kite.

After a few more attempts, our cheerfully colored kite took a beating, pelted from the gray sky by wind, rain and sand. It never stood a chance. Eventually, we let it go, laughing as it collapsed onto the beach like a bright idea humbled by weather.

We had planned this trip for weeks. We’d recently purchased a vintage Volkswagen EuroVan and were excited to camp close to the ocean. The forecast looked clear and sunny when we left Bend and wound our way through the valley. But anyone who lives in Oregon knows forecasts are more suggestions than promises.

As we drove through the coastal towns, we noticed the signs—hand-painted, neon, weathered, proud. World’s Best Clam Chowder. AwardWinning Chowder. The Greatest Chowder on Earth.

“How can that be?” Jahn asked from the back seat. “There can only be one best.”

As we neared our campsite, our farfegnügen was put to the test when the rain began again—light at first, then steady and persistent. The firewood was wet. Our clothes were damp. The kite was trashed. And yet, somehow, spirits remained high.

Cold and hungry, we ducked into a small coastal restaurant—nothing fancy, just fogged windows, a bell on the door and the unmistakable smell of fresh Oregon clams simmering. We ordered three bowls of clam chowder.

Jahn looked up from his bowl. “This might be the best,” he said.

Not the best—just the best right then. And that felt honest.

Flying a kite on the Oregon Coast is a lot like making great clam chowder. You don’t force it. You pay attention. You respect the elements. And when everything comes together—wind, weather, warmth and timing—it feels like a small miracle.

Back home, I tried to capture that moment in a pot.

Flying a kite on the Oregon Coast is a lot like making great clam chowder. You don’t force it. You pay attention. You respect the elements. And when everything comes together—wind, weather, warmth and timing—it feels like a small miracle.

Homegrown Clam Chowder

SERVES 6

Ingredients:

• 2½ pounds live Oregon littleneck clams, rinsed of any sand
• ½ pound good-quality bacon, cut into ½-inch cubes
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1 medium onion, finely diced
• 2 stalks celery, finely diced
• ¼ cup flour
• 1 cup water
• 1 quart whole milk
• 1½ pounds Oregon russet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes
• 2 bay leaves
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup heavy cream
• Minced parsley, for garnish
• Fresh crusty bread, for serving

Instructions:

1. Carefully pick through your clams, tossing out any clams that are opened. Rinse clams under cold water.
2. Place the cubed bacon in a heavy-bottomed stockpot or Dutch oven, over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the bacon begins to brown and barely crisp, about 8 minutes.
3. Add the butter, onion and celery. Cook, stirring often, until the onions are softened but not browned, about 4 minutes. Add the flour to the pot, stirring it in to form a paste. Let this cook for about a minute, and then remove from heat.
4. Meanwhile, in a separate medium pot, add the water and rinsed clams. Set the pot over high heat. Cover and cook, lifting the lid occasionally to stir, until the clams begin to open, about 3 minutes. As they open, remove the clams with tongs and transfer them to a large bowl, keeping as much liquid in the pot as possible. After 6-7 minutes, discard any clams that have not opened.
5. Back in the stock pot, add the milk, potatoes, bay leaves and a pinch of salt and pepper to the pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a bare simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.
6. While the potatoes cook, remove the clam meat from the shells and roughly chop it, checking carefully for (and removing) sand or shell fragments. Strain the clam juices through a fine-mesh sieve, and reserve.
7. Once the potatoes are tender, stir in the heavy cream, and reheat gently. Add the chopped clams and reserved juices. Season well with salt and pepper.
8. Serve immediately with a sprinkle of minced parsley and a loaf of crusty bread.