When Union Wine Co. came out with its Underwood pinot noir in a can in 2014, a groan could be heard from France and California.

True, Oregon wineries have been challenging snobby wine presumptions for years, but this was the ultimate oddity. Underwood canned wines, which now include a rosé and a pinot gris, are approachable and ready-to-travel. Is it a brilliant invention for the outdoorsy Oregon oenophile, or does it mark a hipster demise of otherwise respectable wines? Pop the tab and decide for yourself.