Aji Fish Butchery

written by Kerry Newberry | photography by Aji Fish Butchery

With a sense of calm and artistry, Jeffrey Kim smoothly scales a piece of sea bream behind the bar at Zilla Sake—a destination sushi restaurant in Portland. “I use the sukibiki method,” he said. “It’s a traditional Japanese technique where you delicately slice instead of scrape the scales away, which prevents damage to the fish.” For the past two decades, Kim has worked in seafood with stints at Katsuya in Los Angeles and Portland’s Bamboo Sushi.

He’s currently the head chef at Zilla Sake and runs Aji Fish Butchery on the side. About five years ago, he became interested in dry-aging fish, the intricate process of removing excess moisture to concentrate flavor and enhance texture. “I love the unique textures and flavor profiles of dry-aged fish because it highlights each fish differently,” said Kim.

Jeffrey Kim carefully scales a fish as part of its dry-aging process at his pop-up Aji Fish Butchery on Alberta.

As the fish is stored in Kim’s glass-door refrigerator, flavors compound—a twenty-one-day dry-aged salmon takes on nutty notes, while the fourteen-day dry-aged madai (sea bream) has hints of kelp. Kim monitors the temperature and humidity multiple times a day and keeps logs for himself and the Oregon Department of Agriculture.

The natural process also slowly transforms texture—some fish firm up, and some soften. “It’s amazing to taste the difference,” said Kim. “And there’s no salt or curing involved.” One of his favorite fish to dry age is Japanese mackerel (masaba). “The flavor of the mackerel mellows, yet retains its sweetness,” he said.

It’s an art the chef loves talking about and sharing, which is why he’s launched a lunchtime pop-up and retail counter on Wednesdays through Fridays. The menu specializes in rice bowls topped with Aji’s dry-aged sashimi, but you can also order dry-aged salmon sausages and a trout mousse pâté toast.