Try out this fun weekend project to add dimension to plain drywall.
1 GET YOUR PARAMETERS
Start by taking measurements of the chosen wall to ascertain the available space for the picture molding boxes. Identify places on the wall where the picture molding can’t go, such as electrical outlets, light switches, baseboard and window or door frames. Sketch this elevation to scale, either on paper or in digital software.
2 PLEASING PROPORTIONS
This is potentially the most difficult part of the project—getting the number and proportions of the picture molding boxes right! Think about the wall as a grid with rows and columns, and start sketching out possible layouts. While mapping this, keep in mind the key elements that will affect the final look: repetition and asymmetry. An odd number of rows and columns will look best. When the layout is complete in 2D, use a pencil and a large level to transfer to the wall.
3 MEASURE AND CUT MOLDING
Choose a picture molding style that will sync with the architecture of the existing space, and no bigger than ¾ inch. Starting with the top left corner box, measure twice, and cut once (using a miter saw). It’s important to get the 45-degree cuts right at the corners, so there’s no ugly gaps. But also, if there’s too tight of a join, the corners might warp. Cut each piece as you go, rather than cutting the molding for all of the boxes at once.
4 INSTALL
Attach the top rail of the box first, making sure it’s perfectly level and lined up with the pre-drawn pencil marks on the wall. Use a nail gun, and nail an inch-and-a-half from each corner, so as to keep the corner joint from moving. Going any closer to the joint risks cracking the molding. Continue adding nails in equal increments down the length of the molding, aiming for studs. Double-check measurements and that all the corners are lined up as you add each side, and then the bottom rail of the box.
Note, since the picture molding is going over top drywall, it may not attach to studs regularly. For extra security, consider adding a thin bead of glue to the underside before nailing.
5 FILL THE GAPS
While the goal is to get the picture molding as flush with the wall as possible, there will probably be gaps in some spots. Use a high-quality wood filler to fill the nail holes, as well as any micro gaps at the joints. Let it dry, and then lightly sand the wood filler. (Don’t sand the picture molding and risk losing the pattern.) Follow with paintable caulk for any spots where the frame and wall aren’t meeting perfectly. This will elevate the entire look.
6 PAINT AND FINISH
Once the caulk is dry, prime and paint the entire wall for a seamless look.
