Government Camp: The Ultimate Mount Hood Winter Base

Government Camp bustles with the needs and delights of its winter visitors

written by James Sinks

Once, as winter approached, you didn’t want to be anywhere near Government Camp.

On the southern flank of volcanic Mount Hood, this is where heavy-laden clouds from the Pacific begin dumping moisture—and keep dumping.

In the era of the Oregon Trail, westward caravans were loathe to get caught here by inclement weather along the steep and slow-to-navigate Cascade-crossing toll route, known as the Barlow Road. The community at the top got its name in 1849 after U.S. Cavalry troops en route to Fort Vancouver abandoned wagons and supplies amid heavy snows.

Times have certainly changed. These days, rather than a place to escape from, Government Camp is one of Oregon’s premier winter destinations to escape to.

Just an hour from Portland when conditions are clear, the laid-back alpine hamlet sports four downhill ski areas, one zany tubing park and a latticework of snowshoe, cross-country and snowmobile trails. No matter what you do, afterward there’s an abundance of another thrilling thing: fondue.

First called Wy’East by native Multnomah peoples, Mount Hood is Oregon’s tallest peak at 11,249 feet and named after a British admiral. Government Camp, at a mountainside elevation of about 4,000 feet, averages 21 feet of snow annually.

When an all-season road was completed in the 1920s, it paved the way for the transformation to a snow lovers’ destination. Early winter recreationists from Portland’s Scandinavian community first developed a ski jump, followed by rope tows and downhill runs. The Jumping Norwegians, as they were known, also brought their affinity for melty cheese.

(The way to say “thank you” in Norwegian is “takk.”)

As the popularity grew, the mountain became home to the nation’s first organized ski patrol, the third ski chairlift in the country and, briefly, an aerial gondola “Skiway” that ferried passengers upward on converted buses for 75 cents a trip. Buses still make the trek to “Govy” if you’d rather not drive—but they’re no longer the dangling-from-wires variety.

“To Oregonians, Mount Hood is not just a mountain” wrote the authors of a 1968 Sunset Travel Guide to Oregon. “It is THE Mountain”.>>

Day 1

A HISTORIC LODGE • NIGHT SKIING + TUBING

En route, rent snowshoes and provision up in Sandy or Welches, easy stopping points on the way east and upward. If you didn’t buy one online, make sure to grab a Sno-Park Permit, which helps pay for snowplows and is required to park at recreation spots and trailheads between November and April 30. A three-day pass is $9.

Another good idea: Stock up on carbs at kitschy Skyway Bar and Grill in Zigzag, where the creamy macaroni and cheese is dreamy, no matter which of the eighteen add-ins you choose, from brisket to blue cheese to sauerkraut (yes, sauerkraut).

While the year-round population of Government Camp hovers around eighty, you wouldn’t know it once the flurries arrive. Weekends, you’ll find that many people lining up at popular ski lifts, or hoisting pints at late-night gathering spots.

The tiny, tidy downtown is a three-block cluster of wooden restaurants, lodges, a keepsake-filled market and vacation rentals. The community rests in a draw between Mount Hood and the 2-mile-long Tom Dick and Harry Mountain, which also forms the geological bowl at Mt. Hood Skibowl resort. The name comes not from actual people but rather from a trio of nubs along its 5,066-foot-high summit.

Dedicated by President Franklin Roosevelt in 1937 as Oregon suffered through the Great Depression, the iconic Timberline Lodge sits 6 winding miles above Government Camp at a snowier elevation of about 6,000 feet. The entire place is a showpiece, as the New-Deal-era Works Progress Administration didn’t just hire masons and carpenters to build the cavernous 55,000-square-foot alpine hotel. Also receiving much-needed paychecks were artisans who filled the place with intricate tilework, paintings and wood-carved animals.

Timberline Lodge: a historic alpine gem on Mount Hood’s snowy slopes. *(photo: Timberline Lodge)*

The state’s only ski-in and ski-out hotel, Timberline also is home to giant fireplaces, two bars (one of them, the Blue Ox, hidden in the basement) and Saint Bernards named Heidi and Bruno, and it was the setting for one scary movie: the exterior shots for the fictional Overlook Hotel in the 1980 movie adaptation of Stephen King’s The Shining.

An interior view of a cozy, rustic stone-walled space with a stained glass window, evoking a warm, inviting atmosphere perfect for winter adventures. — The cozy charm of the Blue Ox bar at Timberline Lodge. *(photo: Timberline Lodge)*

Shimmering but not in a frightening way, three of Mount Hood’s downhill resorts including Timberline illuminate runs for night skiing.

The lights first flickered on in 1966 at Mt. Hood Skibowl, and it now ranks as America’s largest night ski area, with thirty-seven lit runs plus Cosmic Tubing, where you bounce downhill to dance music and a laser light show.

Cosmic Tubing at Mt. Hood Skibowl: a dazzling nighttime adventure. *(photo: mthoodterritory.com)*

Afterward, if downhill disco made you hungry, there’s pizza, a fireplace and lore at The Ratskeller, once the finish line for a legendary annual ski race from Timberline to Government Camp. Now, you’ll only race to the bar or in the video arcade, if that’s your thing. Like most Govy eateries, there’s also pretzels and melty cheese.

A bartender serving drinks to customers at a cozy mountain bar in Oregon, with snow visible outside. The scene captures the winter adventure vibe, highlighting Oregon's outdoor and après-ski culture. — The Ratskeller for pizza and beer in Govy. *(photo: mthoodterritory.com)*

If you’re already a little sore, and even if you’re not, warm up in Timberline’s sauna and spacious outdoor hot tub, open to hotel guests until 11 p.m.

Day 2

SNOWSHOEING • WATERFALLS • LOCAL EATS

Daylight doesn’t last as long in the winter, and neither does untrampled overnight snow, so getting up early is a thing on the mountain. As such, so is strong coffee.

Happily, there’s espresso waiting at High Mountain Cafe—along with cinnamon rolls, breakfast burritos and that happy feeling that comes with a day without household chores.

The Mount Hood National Forest encompasses some 1.1 million acres and, after the snow melts, yields a third of the state’s drinking water. While still frozen, it’ll whet your thirst for adventure. For the budget-conscious and crowd-avoidant, snowshoes are a perfect way to take it in.

Two women skiing in snowy forested landscape during winter. — Snowshoeing through the serene beauty of Mount Hood National Forest. *(photo: mthoodterritory.com)*

You don’t need to go far: Gears and guided tours can be found in town at Mt. Hood Outfitters. For the adrenaline and noise junkie set, they also offer ninety-minute snowmobile rides.

Nearby at the Nordic center at Mt. Hood Meadows ski resort, cross-country skiers can ply 15 kilometers of groomed trails, or you can join guided snowshoe treks to 100-foot-high Sahalie Falls. Passes are required.

Want to go guide-free? One of the state’s most popular snowshoe trips tromps around Trillium Lake, just east of town and submerging part of the original Barlow Road. A 4.4-mile lollipop route takes you from a sno-park on U.S. Highway 26 to the lake loop trail, which offers stunning views of the mountain when clouds clear. In the coldest months, the lake—which sits at 3,700 feet—freezes over, but check conditions with the Forest Service before venturing onto the ice.

Warm up afterward with happy vibes and fare at Glacier Public House, which caters both to Bavarian-fare-seeking carnivores and herbivores, with schnitzel of both the chicken and cauliflower variety. And, of course, fondue.

If you feel like fine dining at elevation, the nationally acclaimed and historic Cascade Dining Room at Timberline is a culinary must-visit. Savor views, Northwest organic fare, an expansive wine list and a charcuterie plate that could be a meal by itself. Reservations are a very good idea.

After twilight falls on the mountain and especially when the moon is up, there’s an understandable urge to venture back into the crystalline solitude. Capitalizing on that rising demand, guided nighttime snowshoe walks are regularly scheduled at Cooper Spur Mountain Resort, Timberline and Mt. Hood Meadows, plus at Mt. Hood Outfitters.

“The view of the mountain is amazing if you have a clear night,” said Craig Gwydir, the Trips Chair for Portland-based nonprofit Trails Club of Oregon. “These tours and meetup events are great for folks just getting started.”

Still have energy? It’s a chill après-ski scene at Charlie’s Mountain View, with music, billiards and drink specials. If you’re the one who’s chilled, happily you won’t need to look far for a crackling fireplace.>>

Day 3

COMFORT FOOD • CULTURAL CENTER • BREWS

Packing up at Timberline, also bid adieu to Bruno or Heidi, the friendly Saint Bernard mascot ambassadors who’ve been part of the hotel’s legacy since its early days—aside from a brief spell in the 1950s where they were replaced by huskies.

The newest versions were born in July. Bruno is the twelfth hotel dog to have that name, and Heidi is the tenth. Mainstays at the lobby and the adjacent skiing day lodge, they are treated as employees and get days off, so check their hours to see when they’re at work.

Also a longtime favorite is the venerable Huckleberry Inn, named after the tart blueberry relative that grows in the upland Mount Hood wilderness. Actually a restaurant, it’s a wood-paneled place where hunger doesn’t stand a sliver of a chance, with hangover cures like steak and eggs, biscuits and gravy and not-for-the-meek $7 donuts. True to its name, you can also get huckleberry shakes anytime, and syrup at the register—along with Band-Aids, mosquito repellent and sunscreen.

If you’re done crashing on the slopes, find a more comfortable crash course in local history at the Mt. Hood Cultural Center and Museum, open daily between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. Wander among antique skis, trophy cases from local recreationist clubs and a gift shop featuring local artisans. Some of the old photos feature the one-lift Summit Pass ski area in town, one of the first local ski hills—and now the proposed site of a major mountain project.

Visitors examining a detailed miniature wooden house model at the Oregon history exhibit, highlighting Oregon's architectural heritage and craftsmanship. — Visitors admire a detailed model of Timberline Lodge at the Mt. Hood Cultural Center and Museum, a hub for exploring the region’s rich history. *(photo: mthoodterritory.com)*

Timberline, which now owns that beginnerfriendly ski hill, envisions an aerial gondola (but not with buses) that would ferry passengers upward to the main resort, 2.5 miles away. The vision, now under review by the Forest Service, would both expand the Timberline ski territory and also eliminate the need for as many people to drive to the lodge.

Before leaving downtown, the handful of local merchants would love for you to visit, preferably with your wallet.

The bevy of breweries that give Portland its well-deserved nickname of “Beervana” all rely on the clean water that cascades from Mount Hood. None get water closer to the source than Mt. Hood Brewing Co., which opened its first location in 1991 in Government Camp. In the flagship pub, try local-themed Ice Axe IPA and Timberline Tucker, named after a 1950s-era Sno-Cat.