Cannon Beach Oregon Guide: Haystack Rock, Coastal Trails & a 3-Day Itinerary

Celebrate art, serenity and Oregon’s open coast at timeless Cannon Beach

written by James Sinks

The USS Shark was in trouble.

The year was 1846, and the military schooner was listing near the treacherous Columbia River bar. Desperate to stay afloat, the captain ordered the crew to throw nonessential weight over the side. Among the items chucked overboard: cannons.

While the boat ultimately sank, the crew survived. So did the cannons.

One of them was later rediscovered near a towering sea stack called Haystack Rock on the north coast. More than a century after the shipwreck, the metal memento became the formal namesake of one of Oregon’s most popular beach destinations, when the artsy hamlet of Cannon Beach incorporated in 1957.

An hour west of Portland at the junction of U.S. Highway 101, drivers destined for the nearest Pacific beach face a more-than-directional decision.

Want a party? Bumper cars, boisterous bars and the busy promenade of Seaside beckon to the north. But if you’re keen to slow down, then steer southward.

Mostly hidden from the highway, timeless Cannon Beach is a narrow ribbon stretching along the shoreline for about 4 miles, with the iconic Haystack Rock in the middle. It’s home to 1,400 residents, spas, galleries, several wandering elk and serenity.

Near the retail district, a carved welcome pole watches over NeCus’ Park, the site of a former indigenous village in the onetime range of Clatsop, Nehalem and Tillamook peoples. During Lewis and Clark’s Voyage of Discovery in early 1806, the crew trekked here from near present-day Astoria and traded for blubber and oil from a beached whale.

Inside town and out, it’s a place where nothing is in a hurry. Venture into mossy old-growth rainforests, along driftwood-cluttered beaches and to dizzying lookouts on Neahkahnie Mountain. The scenery has made the place a frequent movie backdrop, from Twilight to The Goonies to the finale of Point Break, filmed at Ecola State Park just north of the city limits.

A mile offshore to the northwest is the no-longer-functioning Tillamook Rock Lighthouse, which helped ward ships from hazards from 1881 until 1957. (Not soon enough for the USS Shark.)

Lighthouse on sea stack with crashing waves on rocky Oregon coast, showcasing rugged shoreline and maritime safety. — Nearby Tillamook Rock Lighthouse shows power and danger of its environs. (photo: NASHCO)

Also known as “Terrible Tilly” and frequented only by sea lions, the aging maritime landmark offers a visual reminder that when life gets choppy, Cannon Beach is a fine place to lighten your load and—at least for a few days—to toss your troubles over the side.

Day 1

THE BEACH • LOCAL HISTORY • GALLERIES

It may be tempting to immediately start browsing the tidy arts district clustered on Hemlock Street. Understandable, but first, foray to the inspiration that’s attracted artists and makers for generations: the outdoors.

Anywhere in town, the sand is steps away.

Every mile of Oregon’s beaches are open to the public, and you can thank two governors for the unfettered access. Governor Oswald West in 1913 declared them a state highway to the high tide line.

In 1967, Cannon Beach played a starring role when Governor Tom McCall successfully expanded that access to the rest of the sand, up to the vegetation line. McCall famously invited reporters to see where a local hotel owner blocked the beach with logs and no trespassing signs. The governor glowered and said some unprintable things, drew a line in the sand, and the Beach Bill passed soon after.

While appreciating those decisions of yesteryear, also check tide tables for the day. When the ocean retreats, a rocky expanse fronting 235-foot-high Haystack Rock turns into explorable tide pools where you can go (sea) stargazing. You can’t actually venture onto the towering basalt rock itself, however, which is protected and home to nesting puffins in spring and summer. Questions? Look for red jacket-and knowledge-sporting volunteers from the Haystack Rock Awareness Program.

Once you’ve worked up an appetite, the barbecue magicians at Cannon Beach Smokehouse make hunger disappear in a hole-in-the-wall shop on Second Street. Check the sausages of the day, and order one corndog style. There’s also spinach salad for herbivores.

Waddle off lunch and do some learning among exhibits, a replica native longhouse and a USS Shark cannon at the local history center and museum, open Wednesdays through Saturdays. Admission is by donation.

Named one of the 100 best art towns in America, Cannon Beach features more than a dozen eclectic galleries. At the Cannon Beach Arts Association’s home base, some 200 local artists are part of rotating displays, and you also can register for classes. They’re popular, so do it in advance if possible, advised director Summer Peterson.

Colorful wildlife and nature artwork displayed in an art gallery, emphasizing creativity and outdoor inspiration. — Art is the cultural spine of Cannon Beach. (photo: NASHCO)

Tourists often wonder where to start, she said. There are no wrong answers. “We’re keeping the vibe alive of a ’50s and ’60s art colony.”

Happy hour will be happier at the truffle-filled Chocolate Cafe, where milkshakes and dreamy hot chocolate are 25 percent off weekday afternoons.

If your idea of happiness involves a little more octane, step into Alchemy Lounge, attached to the lobby at the Cannon Beach Hotel. There’s an old-style tin ceiling overhead, and Old Fash-ioneds concocted from an impressive whiskey list. Dusted with dried flowers, the effervescent, gin-infused Japanese 75 makes the place even prettier.

Much like in other coastal hot spots, you can choose among ample high-end dinner spots. But for an unusual and satisfying turn, there’s drinks, seafood and burgers, plus paint and garden supplies at Cannon Beach Hardware and Public House, the state’s first combination hardware store and pub. Out front, the sign invites you to “screw and brew.”

Crispy fried fish and golden French fries served with a cold beer at Haystack, promoting a casual dining experience in Oregon. — Fix things and fish and chips at Cannon Beach Hardware and Public House. (photo: NASHCO)

Check to see if there’s a live show at roller rink-turned-Coaster Theatre Playhouse. If not, just keep the window cracked. Pretty much any place in town, the whisper of the surf is a fine finale for a day well spent.

Day 2

SURFING • TRAILS + VIEWS • BREWS

The beach may be postcard pretty, but you can’t see the water temperature, and oh my. Think 50 degrees in March and only the low 60s in summer. Yet with wet suits and a sense of adventure, the waves can be a playground.

At Cannon Beach Surf Lessons and Rentals, co-owner Julie Adams and her crew offer two-hour lessons for beginners and up. If you want to be a downward dog before a salty one, add a beach yoga session.

Also a singer in a band with her partner, Adams says she hasn’t performed while giving lessons. She also didn’t say she won’t.

Warm up with caffeine at Sea Level Bakery + Coffee, a bright cottage on South Hemlock where there’s a nutty light roast, croissants many ways and toy dinosaurs hiding in the houseplants.

Woman baking bread in a commercial kitchen, emphasizing healthy and mindful baking practices at Haystack Bakery. — Sea Level Bakery + Coffee is the place to get your day started off right. (photo: Nicole Mason/Sea Level Bakery & Coffee)

South and through a tunnel on Highway 101 is lush Oswald West State Park, named after the former governor. The road also climbs a cliff face on the flank of Neahkahnie Mountain to some of the best views on the Oregon Coast, 600 feet above the waves. The mountain is also rumored to have buried Spanish treasure, but nobody has found it. Well, except the fictional Goonies.

At the base of the hill, it’s a half-mile forested walk—with optional detours into old-growth groves—to Short Sand Beach in Smugglers’ Cove, where you can reliably find driftwood, surfers, tide pools and seasonal waterfalls, but no smugglers.

Beach scene with trees, sand, and ocean waves, highlighting Oregon's natural beauty and outdoor recreation opportunities. — Short Sand Beach, or “Shorty’s,” at Oswald West State Park is a great place to learn to surf. (photo: Katie Falkenberg/Travel Oregon)

Another nearby waterfall splashes onto the sand at Hug Point State Recreation Site, named such because early wagons needed to stay close to the rock to avoid the surf. The park is scheduled to reopen at spring break, after erosion cut access this winter.

Beautiful waterfall cascading over rocks with lush pine trees and blue sky in the background. — Waterfalls at Hug Point State Recreation Site. (photo: Dan Hawk)

Public Coast Brewing Co. is an homage to the state’s open shorelines, with an IPA named after Governor West. They try to source all of their ingredients from within 400 miles, including from their own farm, and anything on the menu can be made gluten free. The creamy grilled cheese is even better with bacon.

Outdoor seating at Public Coast Brewing with people enjoying drinks and socializing on a sunny day, surrounded by greenery and colorful flowers, promoting a healthy, happy lifestyle. — Public Coast Brewing Co. with its uber-local sourcing. (photo: Public Coast Brewing Co.)

From there, it’s an easy stroll through the boutiques and galleries that fill downtown, but less easy to keep all your money. On the art association’s walking tour, meander from outdoor sculptures to a glassblowing studio and crafted colorful starfish at Icefire Glassworks. If it’s damp out, get lost upstairs at interior boutique Sesame + Lilies, which feels like a sprawling, stylish mansion.

A chef since 1991, Jack Stevenson led kitchens at top-end resorts in California and Florida before a motorcycle trip brought him to Cannon Beach. Luckily for us, he bought the Bistro restaurant where he creates what he calls “food without confusion.” Unquestionably, it’s delicious. (Save room for chocolate torte with house-made coffee ice cream. You’ll thank me later.)

For a lazy nightcap, there’s friendly locals, billiards, darts and a stone fireplace at the laid-back Warren House Pub, named for a homesteading family who once owned 160 acres on the south side of town and had an inn nearby. Their first registered guest, in 1911? Governor Oswald West.

Day 3

PUFFINS • SPAS • FISH MARKET

Ready to stretch out? The shoreline offers miles of wet sand for a wave-dodging morning walk or jog. Along with any huffing and puffing, you also can see puffins.

The best time to view the tufted seabirds is early in the day from April to July, near burrows dug into the northeast side of Haystack Rock. In breeding season, they get all fancy when their beaks take on their signature orange hues and their eyebrows blush yellow.

Relaxed group sitting on beach chairs around a campfire at Haystack, Oregon, during sunset, with ocean waves and sea stacks in the background, promoting outdoor health and happiness. — No better way to end the day than with a fire and in the shadow of Haystack Rock at Cannon Beach. (photo: Travel Oregon)

The showy birds aren’t the only resident morning wildlife. Bunnies bounce around, and keep your eyes peeled for surprisingly big elk both on the beach and hanging about in yards. Pro tip: Watch your step everywhere for elk poops.

For some very good breakfast with an even better view, order crab or smoked salmon Benedicts at beachfront Wayfarer Restaurant & Lounge. There’s also chicken and waffles and Bloody Marys.

If you haven’t unwound sufficiently during your stay, hands-on help is available. The beachfront Hallmark Resort and Spa is home to Elements by the Sea, with massages, facials and a sauna. Ocean Spa in the downtown district has massages, feet treatments and sunless tanning.

Just north of town, Ecola State Park follows 9 miles of coastline and includes 8 miles of the Oregon Coast Trail. There’s also a 2.5-mile Clatsop Loop Trail that partly follows the route of the 1806 Lewis and Clark hunt for a beached whale. It’s a good vantage for photos and to spy migrating gray whales offshore.

For your last stop, choose your lunch and seafood to-go from the glass cases at Ecola Fish Market, where chances are the catch up the day is really caught that day. The owners have three fishing boats docked at Garibaldi in Tillamook Bay. The fish and chips and fish tacos are winners, and so is the pet-friendly patio if the wind cooperates.

Relaxed and headed homeward, when you reach the junction of Highway 101, be sure to congratulate yourself on making the correctturn.

Ready to stretch out? The shoreline offers miles of wet sand for a wave-dodging morning walk or jog. Along with any huffing and puffing, you also can see puffins.