Food+Drink

Home Grown Chef: The Spice of Life

written by Thor Erickson | photography by Charlotte Dupont My wife’s brother-in-law is a great cook. He has no formal training in the culinary arts, yet Kelley is one of the best cooks I know. Not only does he have the right instincts for flavor and texture, he practices great technique, has a mind for weight and volume conversion, and keeps a seriously clean kitchen. I know that his upbringing as the second youngest son of six kids in 1960s, pre-Disney-World Orlando played into this. When he was not horrifying his mother by repairing motorcycles in the living room while blasting Lynyrd Skynyrd, he was helping her make supper. A decade ago, well after Kelley had moved to Tigard, he gave me a Christmas present—a quart-sized Mason jar of what his homemade label declared “Three Jackass Rub.” He and a couple of neighborhood buddies had made the spice blend, primarily…

Oregon Truffle Festival

written by Jen Stevenson | photos by Kathryn Elsesser The holidays may be but a mulled-wine-muted memory, but Christmas is just beginning for Oregon truffle lovers, as a diverse group of local and international farmers, chefs, mycologists, vintners, dog trainers and the truffle-obsessed gather in Eugene and Yamhill Valley for winter’s much-anticipated annual Oregon Truffle Festival. Spanning two fungi-filled weekends in January and February, the fourteen-year-old festival is ripe (literally) with opportunities to celebrate and sample Oregon’s black and white gold. Score tickets to the decadent six-course Grand Truffle Dinner featuring acclaimed Portland chefs Greg and Gabi Denton (Bistro Agnes, Ox) and Gregory Gourdet (Departure), learn about the latest advances in truffle science from the world’s leading experts during the two-day Truffle Growers’ Forum, follow along with professional four-legged foragers during an authentic Willamette Valley wine country truffle hunt before sitting down to a lavish luncheon, or sniff, sample and…

Beerlandia: Oregon Brews Traveler

written by Jeremy Storton My foot begins to tap anxiously and I keep looking at my watch. I don’t look at the time, but the date. This is how my beer wanderlust begins. Many of us need to take occasional breaks from the humdrum of our lives, or discover some perspective that will improve it. Perhaps we seek adventure or need to affirm what we have is still pretty good. Nonetheless, the road calls and distant lands beckon. This is the premise for wine-tasting weekends or unspoken trips to Vegas. For me, the thirst for good beer experiences is unquenchable. My wife and children are often my companions as I drag them to another brewery for lunch. They wait patiently while I gab with another brewer about process, flavors and beer culture blah-de-blah. They are good sports and usually get a glass of wine or ice cream, respectively, out of…

Little Bean offers a revolutionary dairy-free alternative

written by Michelle DeVona Restaurateur Micah Camden has done it again. Best known as co-founder of Blue Star Donuts, Little Big Burger and Boxer Ramen, he’s also behind Super Deluxe, a drive-thru burger joint that has had fast food zealots smitten since it opened this year. Despite all this, Camden’s latest project, Little Bean—a chickpea ice cream company—may be his wildest yet. As he neared 40 years old, Camden realized he couldn’t eat the way he did in his younger days, especially when it came to dairy and gluten. “I’ve always had an aversion to soy because of the Monsanto stigma. When I started going down the rabbit hole of what a dairy replacement could be or should be, I was able to find out that the genetic properties of a soybean was almost identical to that of a chickpea. And I thought to myself, this is the bean.” Curious…

Dining At Casa Zoraya

We are taking a look at Casa Zoraya, perfect Peruvian food classics written by Jen Stevenson | photos by Gwen Holle Buried in a trafficy, nondescript block of North Lombard just east of the interstate, this unexpected slice of Lima life is drawing Portland diners both curious and already besotted with its perfect Pisco sours, vibrant ceviches, and rich, robust Peruvian comfort food classics. Helmed by namesake and Andina alum Zoraya Zambrano, whose family originally emigrated from Calca, a town in Peru’s Sacred Valley of the Incas, and her children, Gloria and Gary Marmanillo (Andina, Paiche, Can Font, DOC), the color-splashed restaurant’s menu is short and sweet, no more than a dozen dishes melding local produce with traditional Peruvian ingredients like ají chile, lucuma fruit and choclo, a chewy, starchy, large-kerneled Andean corn. The beautifully executed—and plated—fare ranges from prismatic shrimp causas to an ultra-savory lomo saltado to chunks of…

Best Places for Cold Weather Comfort Food

Comfort food destinations KACHKA Portland food lovers waited with bated herring breath for beloved Siberian pelmeni purveyors Bonnie and Israel Morales to open their second, larger location, just up the way from their SE Grand Avenue firstborn (now renamed Kachinka). James Beard Award-nominated chef Bonnie Morales pulls from her Belarusian heritage to dish up fan favorites like Baltic Sprat Buterbrodi, Rabbit in a Clay Pot, and Herring “Under a Fur Coat,” while a new Russian-style mangal grill allows for a slew of charcoal-fired skewers—try the Azeri-style sturgeon, lamb lyulya and whole baby eggplant. The vodka menu remains reliably robust, but the new Kachka also boasts a wine cellar and a strong Eastern-European-centric bottle list. 960 SE 11TH AVE. PORTLAND www.kachkapdx.com SUGARPINE DRIVE-IN Those long hot summer nights of sipping frosé on the patio may be but a happy memory, but this charming Troutdale drive-in, opened in July by chef-owners Emily…

Foodie Destinations: We have your food vacations planned

Foodie destinations around the state written by Kevin Max, Sheila G. Miller & Jen Stevenson Maybe you’re like us―at breakfast on vacation, you’re already planning your next meal. Oregon is nearly 100,000 square miles, and there are bountiful crops and delightful restaurants in every corner. We picked some spots you’re going to want to check out—whether you’re looking for a down-home old-timey cafe, a fancy big-city feast, or a chance to improve your cooking chops. Portland’s Fine Dining Portlanders pride themselves on being as casual and unpretentious as they come, but that doesn’t mean they don’t know how to gussy up and have a night on the town, complete with white tablecloths, wine pairings and break-the-bank-worthy tasting menus. Plan on being early to your reservation at uber-talented chefs Will Preisch and Joel Stocks’ modernist gem Holdfast Dining, because it shares a wall and kitchen with star bartender Adam Robinson’s exceptional…

Po’Shines is Much More Than a Restaurant Venture

Po’Shines is Nourishing the Community’s Soul written by Adam Sawyer | photography by Claire Thorington Pastor E.D. Mondainé grew up on soul food. The St. Louis native can recall a time in his life when every member of the extended family excelled in one particular dish, taking pride in the way it filled bellies as well as hearts. “It was food created from the soul to feed the soul,” Mondainé said. Mondainé would grow into a man who extended the tradition and meaning of soul food into just about every aspect of his life. He also wears many hats. In addition to being a pastor, he’s an activist, author, musician and now president of the Portland NAACP. Long before taking his current position, Mondainé saw a trend and a need in his adopted home of Portland. “There were a number of community members on public assistance,” he said, “just as…

Bruce’s Candy Kitchen in Cannon Beach

Seaside Sweets in Cannon Beach at Bruce’s Candy Kitchen photography by Ben McBee It’s an age-old Oregon tradition—visit the coast, try the taffy. Bruce’s Candy Kitchen, which has locations in Seaside and Cannon Beach, has been serving up the sweet treat since 1963. From humble beginnings—eight taffy flavors and twelve hand-dipped chocolates—the candy store has expanded to offer hundreds of delicacies. Look for the pink-and-white striped storefront—Bruce’s family is waiting for you. Visitors are always encouraged to stop by and watch the taffy-making process, but Taylor suggests calling ahead to ensure it’s happening. Besides sweets, Bruce’s Candy Kitchen also sells a variety of baking accessories and toys. Learn more about Bruce’s Candy Kitchen.

Nordia House of Southwest Portland

Inside the Nordia House of Southwest Portland, a cultural center, showcasing all things Danish, Icelandic, Finnish, Norwegian and Swedish. written by Cathy Carroll | photography by Carly Diaz Chefs who strive to create the authentic cuisine of faraway places must frequently rely on what they’ve learned from family, travels and research. At Broder Söder, however, chef James Drinkward works in a microcosm inside the Nordia House of Southwest Portland, a cultural center which opened in 2015. Here, he’s merely a Thor’s hammer throw from experts on all things Danish, Icelandic, Finnish, Norwegian and Swedish. “The people at Nordia House are influential,” said Drinkward, who grew up in Southwest Portland. “I get lots of interesting feedback, such as, ‘My grandma made it this way.’ Scandinavians tend to be pretty direct, so they’ll tell you what they think.” Not your grandfather’s Sons of Norway lodge, Nordia House exemplifies contemporary Nordic design inspired…